A lot has happened since last time. I left Ho Chi Minh City, spent 4 days in Can Tho and traveled on toward Phnom Penh in Cambodia by speedboat from Chau Doc.

I’ve already written a number of stories about Can Tho, but in summary it’s a Vietnamese city for Vietnamese people, with a little entertainment for passing tourists. It was 4 exciting days, but by the 4th day I’d also seen what there was to see.

A long time ago I decided to travel into Cambodia by boat. After a bit of research I found out that a small town near the border, Chau Doc, had daily transport to Phnom Penh. I booked a night at a hostel that offered to arrange the boat trip.

Chau Doc is a bit like Can Tho, just smaller. Built for Vietnamese people with a small bit of tourism passing through, centered around a small harbor along the river. The hostel is located a little outside the town center. I just needed a cheap night’s stay, so I found something at a low price with reasonably decent reviews. It’s actually a pretty nice hostel though. Big, clean and peaceful.

I had a short afternoon and evening in Chau Doc, which I spent in the town center. A big hotel/restaurant is the center of the town’s tourism. It’s located in front of the harbor, and that’s where all the tourists hang out. Around the hotel are the nicest and most expensive cafés, restaurants and shopping options. Walk 500-1000 meters away from the hotel to pay half for almost the same thing. I ate dinner at the hotel and walked around a bit afterward. Both in Can Tho and Chau Doc I drew attention as I wandered around. A curiosity about this strange foreign man walking around the streets when everyone else hops on a scooter.

Next morning it was up early and off to catch the 5-hour-long boat ride. There are about 20 of us tourists heading to Cambodia. We’re all international, with most of us up around retirement age. There’s room for 40 on the boat, so there’s plenty of space, which is lucky given the heat. It’s already 30 degrees when we set off in the morning, and the temperature only rises from here.

We have to cross the border, which happens in two steps. First we sail an hour to the Vietnamese border house. It’s a small boathouse with seating, where we’re asked to wait while all our passports get checked and stamped out of Vietnam. Back on the boat to sail 5 minutes to the Cambodian border house. The Danish state apparatus has worked its magic, because as a Dane I just have to stand there and get a photo taken to get a visa. The other tourists come with printed documents and photos. It takes another 30 minutes before everyone has gotten entry permission. From there it’s back on the boat to enjoy the last 3 hours of sailing to Phnom Penh.

We arrive in Phnom Penh in the middle of the day, and already from the harbor I can feel the difference. Cambodians are very persistent. They don’t take no for an answer. My plan was to find something to eat before heading to the hostel, maybe take a short walk. But I get chased. The tuk tuk drivers see a new tourist with a full pack and smell blood in the water. I have to take refuge in a kiosk, where I buy some water and make a plan. It’s clear that I won’t get a peaceful afternoon as long as I have all my gear with me. So I give up on my plans and head to the hostel first to drop my backpack.

Now I actually need a tuk tuk, but I’m 100% sure I’ll get a bad price from the ones outside the kiosk. The first driver spots me and starts selling. The tactic he uses is simple. Talk fast and get me into his tuk tuk. The Grab app shows me that the trip should cost around 5000 riel – $1.25. He wants 10000 riel for the trip. After negotiating, I got him down to the Grab price. It’s still better for him than if I use Grab, because then Grab doesn’t take a cut of the amount. But looking back, it’s still a bit of a bittersweet victory. Yes, I got a reasonably fair price, but we’re talking pocket change for me, and an amount that actually makes a difference to the driver. I just have to admit that I don’t have thick enough skin to be a negotiator.

Mad Monkey is the name of my hostel. It’s a chain here in Southeast Asia and has a pretty good reputation. Bar, restaurant, tours, shared activities. It’s a young crowd, and even though I’m not the oldest, I’m dragging up the average age. The prices aren’t super cheap either. I’m actually surprised I got a private room for my price. In general, booking is just a nightmare if you want the good price. I can get 3 different prices depending on whether I check booking sites, the Mad Monkey website or directly at reception. On top of that there are various discount codes and deals in play. From best to worst price there’s a $50 difference for a 7-day stay. And when it comes to big hostel chains, I have no qualms about pushing the price all the way down.

Phnom Penh is an exciting city, and I look forward to experiencing it over the next few weeks. On the boat trip to Phnom Penh I listened to the podcast Tyran about Pol Pot. It gave a small taste of some of the horrors that played out here just 50 years ago. But Cambodia’s history is rich and stretches back much further. It feels like a natural next chapter in the broader story of the region.

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